Direct Seed vs transplant: Choosing the best planting method

Nobody goes into the garden season planning to limit their chances of a successful harvest… But if you start your seeds in less-than-ideal conditions you could be doing just that! Read on for tips to start your seeds the best way and improve your garden success!

I remember the first time I tried to grow carrots. I had a traditional plastic tray, filled with my soil mix, and I carefully sprinkled the carrot seeds over the cells. It felt like ages before I finally saw the tiniest little carrot greens growing! I let them continue to grow for another week or so, carefully watering and watching over them each day, and then the day finally arrived that I thought they were ready for the garden and I gently carried them outside to transplant. And as gingerly as I tried to tease those carrots out to transplant to the garden it was no use - none of them made it. I was heartbroken! But it was a good gardening lesson to learn - the WAY that you start and plant your crops makes a HUGE difference. 

I’ve created an all-in-one reference guide for HOW to start your seeds, and WHEN to plant them in your garden. Grab it HERE!

When it comes to growing your vegetables, and really anything in your garden for that matter, there’s two basic methods for planting - direct seeding and transplanting. And they are exactly what they sound like: direct seeding is where you put the vegetable seed (or herb, flower, etc) straight in the garden for it to begin its growth; transplanting is starting the seed in a controlled area, letting it grow and get stronger, then transplanting the plant to the garden at the right time. 

With either method, you’ll want to make sure your timing is right. This is especially important in the fall when you need to give your plants enough time to grow and establish before they begin to experience winter frosts. Check out my earlier post all about When to Start Fall Vegetable Seeds for some pointers.

DIRECT SEEDING

As a general rule most root crops do best when they are direct-seeded in the garden. This was my mistake with my carrots! I should have prepared the garden area and sown the seeds directly in the garden. Root crops, like carrots, radishes, etc, do best with direct sowing, so there is no damage to their roots (and future crop) during transplanting.

Some other plants, such as beans and peas have such great germination and grow so quickly that it can be easier to start them directly in the garden. 

To direct seed in your garden, first make sure your growing area is clear and weed-free (they’ll compete with and choke out your seedlings), and remove any large rocks/clumps (especially important for root vegetables as they won’t have room to grow otherwise). Then, follow your seed packet directions for sowing, according to depth and spacing. Press the seeds/soil gently to make sure they have good contact, and be sure to mark your area so you’ll be able to remember what you have growing and where.

As the seeds begin to sprout and grow you’ll likely need to come back later and thin out many of the seedlings. This is always so hard for me to do (I feel like I’m playing judge, jury and executioner!) but is CRUCIAL for the overall health of your plants. If you don’t thin them they’ll end up crowding each other out, and their growth (and production!) will suffer as a result. When it comes to thinning I like to use a pair of scissors and cut the seedling right at the soil level, so I don’t risk damaging the roots of its neighbors.

TRANSPLANTING

While there are several crops that do well when started by direct seeding, many vegetable plants do better for gardeners when planted as transplants, often because they do not have as robust of germination, or may be slow to get growing. Tomatoes are a classic example of this, as are peppers, eggplant, and many others. Starting from transplants also lets the gardener get a head start on their growing season - by starting your plant indoors during the end of winter you will have a robust plant that is weeks ahead of the growing season, ready to be planted out a few weeks after your last frost, and provide a crop weeks to even months earlier than if it had been started at the beginning of its growing season. This is especially helpful for growers in northern regions with a short growing season - they can start their plants indoors weeks before temperatures begin to warm, then transplant out a healthy and vigorous plant early in the season, maximizing the time they can harvest that crop. 

If you are starting your own seeds for transplanting later you’ll want to find your indoor seed starting date by counting backwards from the time that you can plant them in the garden to give your plants plenty of time to grow to reach transplant size. For example, in my garden I plant out tomatoes about 3 weeks after my last frost, when the days (and the soil!) are beginning to warm up. But the seedlings take 8-10 weeks to reach their transplant size. So I actually start my seedlings indoors about 8 weeks before my last frost. With any plants that you are moving from indoors to transplant in the garden you’ll want to be sure to give them a chance to “harden off” to the outdoors over 1-2 weeks before planting. The weather and sunlight are a LOT more intense than your seedlings are used to. To harden off your plants first move them to a shady and protected area, allowing them to adjust to the temperatures. Slowly expose the seedlings to more and more sunlight, just a few hours longer each day, until they are tolerating the full temperatures and sunlight they’ll be growing in. Then you’re ready to plant in the garden!

EITHER DIRECT SEED OR TRANSPLANT

There are some plants that can be grown by either method - they usually have good germination rates and are quick to grow and establish, but are also able to handle being transplanted into the garden if desired. Some of the more common vegetable plants in this category include cucumbers and squash. Follow the directions above for whichever technique you choose.

Getting your seeds started right makes a HUGE difference in your crop success! So don’t make the mistake that I did with my carrots - be sure to consider the crop that you’re planning to determine the best method for starting. You, and your plants, will be so glad that you did! 

Even having grown a lot of my own food for many years I still have to look up a lot of the growing information for each plant. So I created the Garden Reference Cards to help me keep it all straight! Each card includes the plant’s preferred method and timing to start in the garden, along with a TON of other information to help you be successful in your gardening. Be sure to grab a set HERE. 

Happy growing!